Dagmar sent a boat for us. We raced across the bay to Palmizana island with ear-to-ear grins. A battered, chugging Land Rover took us up the hill, deeper and deeper into a botanical playground. It dropped us at the top of the path down to the Meneghello home - bright red and royal blue, covered with bold art, rosemary bushes, olive and orange trees between mad, giant cacti. Dagmar’s family bought the island in 1906 and slowly created a paradise, importing the cacti from Mexico.
Dagmar cooked her gregada stew on an open flame. Two tanned males got a menacing fire going in a matter of seconds upon her command. It also works fine on high heat on the hob. Any white fish will work, it’s just very important that it’s super fresh. Dagmar used red scorpionfish (traditionally associated with Bouillabaisse), grouper fish, big shrimp and clams.
Eight women ate at a red and blue table overlooking the sea, including two of Dagmar’s best friends - a cool, red-headed artist and beautiful befreckled jewellery designer who exalted the power of female friendships and believed that ‘women are simply on another dimension’.
Feeds 4-6
Takes 35 minutes
Ingredients
12 tbsp olive oil approx, plus more for serving
3 medium potatoes, sliced into 0.5cm rounds
2 small/medium onions, sliced into thin rings
2 garlic cloves, sliced into thin slivers
½ bunch fresh parsley, leaves chopped
500–600g mixed white fish and seafood of your choice (Dagmar used red scorpionfish, sea bream fillet, king prawns and clams)
300ml dry white wine
Method
Cut any larger fillets of fish into chunks and set aside.
In a flat-bottomed, low-sided pan drizzle in some olive oil. Layer the potatoes on the bottom of the pan, then drizzle with a little more olive oil and a sprinkle of salt.
Layer the onion rings on top of the potatoes, then drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt again.
Scatter the garlic over, followed by a small handful of parsley. Next add the fish and another handful of parsley.
Pour over another generous drizzle of olive oil and the white wine. Top up with boiling water so that the fish is still visible above – you can make it more soupy by adding more liquid if you like, but Dagmar likes just a small amount of broth.
Cook uncovered on a very high heat for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are soft. Don’t be tempted to stir it in case you break up the potatoes and fish. Instead, just give it a shake from time to time to ensure the potatoes aren’t sticking to the bottom of the pan.
After 20 minutes the sauce should have reduced. Check the sauce for seasoning and add salt if it needs it.
Serve in individual bowls, topped with the remaining parsley, a grind of black pepper and a drizzle of olive oil.
